The region is officially known as “La Rioja”, but you can just called it Rioja. Found in the north of Spain, adjacent to the Basque lands, this region has been producing wine since at least the 9^th century. The region has been producing more or less continuously since then. The fist caretakers of the vines were monks, followed later by private citizens. A seminal moment came in 1852 when a winemaker trained in Bordeaux came to the area to create wines in the dry French style. Since then, the wines have been celebrated as some of the best in Spain. Rioja was first granted Denominacion de Origen status in 1970, then in 1991, was the first wine region to be elevated to the superior rank of Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa).

The area of La Rioja lies on a huge elevated plateau, surrounded by mountains to the north. The vineyards mostly lie along the path of the Ebro River between the towns of Haro and Alfaro. Within the region, there are three subregions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. Rioja Alta is generally considered to produce the best wines, though excellent example do come from all over. The Rioja Alevesa is in the Basque country and has more small producers, which create wines that are a little lighter in body, owing the limestone soils. Rioja Baja is less cultivated and warmer than the rest of the regions and does produce some wine, but not usually of the quality of the rest of the area.

The wine of Rioja is almost all red, though small amounts of white wine are made from Viura. The red grapes of Rioja are dominated by Tempranillo, along with some Graciano and Garnacha (called Grenache elsewhere). The reds wines of the area share the same aging guidelines used in the rest of Spain: Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. These classifications dictate how much time the wine has spent aging in oak barrels. Oak aging and the trademark vanilla notes that it gives the wines are a hallmark of Rioja. Both French and American oak are used, with French being the more historic oak choice and American being the newer style.

The use of more American oak barrels, along with a decrease in the time spent aging Rioja in oak barrels has had an impact on the style normally associated with wines from the region. Todays’ Riojas are less pronounced in the vanilla and spice notes that were once tell-tale Rioja traits. You should note though, that this change in barrels and aging hasn’t affected the quality of the wines, just the style. Rioja wines are generally great wines and can be found a very good value for the quality.

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The tiny region of Priorat is located in the northeast of Spain about 50 miles outside of Barcelona. The land is mountainous, windswept and jagged, home to strange volcanic soils and immense red wines.

The area was first planted in the 12^th century by Spanish monks, and remained in their hands until the 1835 when the government distributed their lands. The area was well planted when the Phylloxera louse hit in the late 1800’s. The bug caused near total devastation of the vineyards and put a stop to fine wine production in the area for almost a century.

Thankfully for the wine-consuming world, a man of vision stepped in to restore Priorat and turn in into the region it is today. That man was Rene Barbier, and the wines he makes to this day are beautiful concentrated expressions of the Garnacha grape and llicorella soils in which it grows.

First off, Garnacha is just what is sounds like—it’s Grenache—the robust grape of the Southern Rhone and the “G” in those Australian GSM blends. Garnacha is the most planted grape in Priorat, but it’s not the only one. Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are all planted and used in the wines of Priorat. Garnacha is, however, the grape that provides the character of the Priorat The Garnacha vines are the oldest in the area, the yields are very low and the fruit they produce has earned the region the highest designation of quality from the Spanish government – DOCa—an honor shared only with the Rioja region.

The soils of the Priorat are special, and hard to pronounce. The soil is volcanic in origin and consists of black, red and brown slate with a touch of mica. Llicorella (say “yee-core-ay-yah”) is the local Catalan word for the jagged mixture. The llicorella reflects sunlight that hits it back up the grape vines and its dark color absorbs heat during the day that radiates out to keep the vines warm at night.

The wines of Priorat are virtually all reds; some are single varietal bottlings of Cabernet, Garnacha or Syrah, while others are blends sold simply under the Priorat name. The wines are intense, bold and concentrated, but also delicate and mineral-scented. These are very special wines, and the prices reflect the low regional output and the great quality. A good bottle of Priorat, while not cheap, will stand up to big reds from around the world and should be a part of any wine lovers vocabulary.

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The dry tablelands overlooking the Mediterranean on the southeast coast of Spain hold treasure. Their bounty isn’t gold or silver but the gems of wines they produce from the complex and tannic Monastrell grape.

The DO of Yecla is nestled in the northeastern corner of its larger neighbor, Jumilla. Both of these official designation of origin (DO) regions grow the marvelous red grape Monastrell. The vines are usually older and are often not irrigated. This leaves the vines and their grapes thirsty and feisty. Vines—and the wines they produce—are like humans; if life is too easy they get soft and flabby. Not here. Here they fight for their rain and bask in rich heat of they day and the cool of the night.

The Monastrell grape is the third most planted grape in Spain, its heartland is the Mediterranean coast. In fact, you may know Monastrell. It travels under many aliases, but most common is Mourvedre (say moo-vahd, like a cow) in the Rhone region of France. In France it goes into the Cotes-du-Rhone and Chatueneuf-du-Pape blends—along with its partner in crime, Grenache.

These are decidedly old-world wines. On the nose they have some of that dusty-Spanish-funk-thing going on, but they’re clean and sweet and gamey. Bright, intense cherry is a feature of both the nose and palette for this Monastrell from Spain. The flavors are ripe and sweet berries, fresh leather and just a whiff of dark chocolate. The acid is big and tight, but balanced. It’s smooth without being overly tannic. And it goes with food. This is great wine.

And here’s the best thing about these Jumilla and Yecla bottles they’re ridiculously underpriced for their value. Given the value of the Euro vs. the dollar and the serious quality that is in these bottles, you are getting a real value from these Spanish bottles. I recently paid $12 for a great bottle at a liquor store. I’ve seen them wholesale for less than $10. Sure, there will be some more expensive bottles out there, and you’re probably find a clunker if you try enough producers, but, the bottom line is buy some Jumilla or Yecla if you can find it.

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Sherry has been called “the most overlooked wine in the world” by many a noted wine author. But really, how could this most ubiquitous of wines be overlooked. It seems everyone who was tried wine has seen or heard of Sherry, right? Well, yes, but Sherry has developed an image problem. First off, it’s unfortunate that producers outside of the real Sherry region are allowed to call their inferior wines “California Sherry” or “American Sherry,” these are not even close to the real deal. Cream Sherry is real Sherry, but is certainly isn’t helping with the reputation problem.

Real Sherry is produced in the southwest corner of Spain in the Jerez district, in and around Cádiz. This area has been growing wine since the Phoenicians introduced the vine around 1100 BC. Wine production has continued since and was even allowed under Moorish rule. Sherry produces wines in several styles using a unique system of wine production and aging.

Sherry is noted for its’ use of the solera system, in which new wine is put into a system of barrels that slowly blends the wines as it ages, and moves down the line of barrels. This process is also used for balsamic vinegar production. Another unique vinification tool is used in the Sherry process, a cap of yeast called the flor. This is a natural yeast that grows on top of the Sherry while it is aging to protect the wine from oxidation. The flor is encouraged to grown on some styles of Sherry and the producers always leave a little room at the top of the barrels as they are filled with wine so that the flor has room to grow.

Most Sherries are produced dry—not sweet—and while some remain this way to the bottling, some receive an addition of sugar. The distinctions in Sherries are referred to as styles and the differences in styles come from the ways in which the wines are produced.

Fino—is the driest style of Sherry, these aged under the cap of flor.

Manzanilla—the lightest style, also dry, made around Sanlucar.

Amontillado—a little darker in style. These start of like Fino, aged under the flor, but then have the cap removed so the wine is exposed to oxygen, giving it a darker and richer flavor. Can be dry or sweet.

Oloroso—these wines are aged in the presence of oxygen so that end up quite dark and rich. Naturally dry, but are often sold sweetened.

Palo Cortado—start as an Amantillado style, but are then exposed to oxygen, a style in between Amantillado and Oloroso

The final style is a sweet wine made usually from Pedro Ximenz, but also Moscotal and usually labeled as such.

The Sherry grapes as we now know them were culled from a huge variety in pre-Phylloxera times and are now down to three varieties: Palomino, Pedro Ximenz and Moscotal. The Palomino dominates production of Sherry with the other two grapes being used for sweet dessert style Sherries

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The Ribera del Duero is home to not only the most expensive wine in all of Spain, but also some of the best values to be found in Spanish wine. The area has been a Denominacion de Origen (DO) appellation since 1982 when a group of quality minded wine growers set out to raise the overall reputation of their wine growing region. And, through the enforcement of regulatory standards on grapes and yields, they have established Ribera del Duero as one of the premium wine growing regions in all of Spain.

The Ribera del Duero (you can call it RDD if you want to sound cool) occupies a stretch of the Duero River in the north of Spain on an extensive plateau. Yes, that is the same Duero River that flows through the legendary vineyards that make Port. The appellation is decidedly sunny and rather extreme, with very hot summers and cold winters. Low rainfall, along with that harsh weather act to reduce vigor—and therefore yields—in the vines, which can produce wines of great depth and concentration.

Historical evidence shows that grape growing and wine consumption has been practiced in the Ribera del Duero region for at least 2,000 years. The modern age of wine making in the area took its first steps when French wine makers migrated to Spain in the wake of the Phylloxera epidemic in the late 1800’s. Those wandering wine makers brought with them the grapes of Bordeaux and the techniques and practices to produce exceptional wines. Progress stalled for a little while after Phylloxera came to the area, but the last half of the 20^th century saw renewed interest in quality and the region has elevated its international status

The wines produced in the Ribera del Duero are almost exclusively red. The majority of acreage is planted to Tempranillo, which is called Tinto Fino locally. There are smaller plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot and Malbec, all of which are produced in order to blend with the Tempranillo. The wines that result from these grapes are concentrated, intense, bright with color and fruit and generally will be high in alcohol.

This obscure little corner of northern Spain is home to the most expensive wine in all of the country—Vega Sicilia. The bodega was founded in 1800’s with planting of Bordeaux grapes along with the native Tempranillo. The estate passed through several owners before it became established as the finest wines in all of Spain. The flagship wine is Unico—only made in excellent years and not released until at least 10 years after its made.

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Phylloxera devastated the south of Spain in the late 1800’s, which meant that the existing vineyards had to be ripped out and replanted. A stroke of fate happened when the red grapes of pre-Phylloxera vineyards were re-planted with white grapes. A second stroke of luck happened when Josep Raventós traveled to Champagne.

He realized that all the newly planted white grapes in his vineyards could be used to make a Spanish sparkling wine, in the style of Champagne. His company Codorníu still produces sparkling wine to this day, though they no longer call it Spanish Champagne, today the world knows his creation as Cava.

Cava literally means “cave” in Spanish and refers to the cool caves where the wines were stored and aged before the advent of refrigeration. Though Cava can technically be made in six areas of Spain, the vast majority of production happens in the region of Penedès, near Barcelona. In order to be labeled as Cava, the sparkling wines must be made in the traditional Champagne method—méthode champenoise. This process creates a wine that undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle. Any wine that is produced with the bulk, forced carbonation process called charmat must be labeled as “Spanish Sparkling Wine.”

The grapes that go into Cava dictate much of it’s flavor profile and style. The main grapes used in the production of Cava are: Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, along with some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which have been planted recently to appease international palettes. The Macabeo is fairly neutral and will usually make up the bulk of the blend. Parellada is the second most widely used grape. It is generally thought of as the best in quality, with apple and mineral notes a crisp finish. Some Cava is now produced and labeled as varietal Parellada. The Xarel-lo grape is indigenous to the area and produces wines with a strong character—which some people find less than pleasant—and is only used in small amounts for blending.

Cava has a texture similar to most sparkling wines, with tight, well-formed bubbles and crisp acidity. The wine can be produced in styles ranging from totally dry to very sweet, in that order they are: brut (nature), brut extra dry, sec or seco, semisec or semiseco, dolsec and finally dolce.

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Wine Club Insider back with you.

You’ve got to “love” the Inland Northwest Weather…

Yesterday, we had beautiful sunshine, 48 degrees, and Spring looked like it had sprung. Today, it is 26, the snow is literally blowing horizontally, and there are new drifts across our driveway. Perfect. If you don’t like the weather, wait a few minutes…

In a recent trip to California, I was struck by how much large parts of the Golden State resemble Spain. Actually – gasp – more than it resembles Bordeaux. (I know, I know… heresy)

But seriously, they’re both dry, hot, and somewhat windy, and that’s where Tempranillo rules!

I’ve had a couple of good ones lately, and I’ve got to say that off the cuff, the big ”T” produces balanced, complex wines that are, dare I say, an all around better value than many other, more famous varieties.

Hold on, hold on… before you send me mean comments, give a couple of these a try and see for yourself.

Remember that even though it’s not one of the Big 3 here (yet!) Rioja is a pretty respectable name in wine, world wide… Now, I’m not saying that California Tempranillo is to the level of Spain’s greatest wines (yet…), and some, to be frank, are trying too hard to become instant “classics.”

Here are a couple I recently tried and really enjoyed. Again, I’m not saying these are equivalent to their Spanish cousins – they’re actually quite different, but they both harken to the mystery of an under-appreciated (at least here!) grape that is going nowhere but up!

These choices were recommended by SNOOTH, and I have to say I agree. (BTW, Greg Del Piaz at SNOOTH does a great job… check him out at http://www.snooth.com/talk/. He’s great at answering questions as well. If you get a chance to try some Temp from your wine club, get it right away, and get ready to order more!

2004 Truchard Carneros Napa Valley – Big, deep, plush, really. This is one you can cellar for a few years. Very well balanced.

2006 Garsa Calaveros County – Lighter, fruity, almost like a Beaujolais in depth, I thought.

Okay, here are a couple of Spanish versions as well…

2000 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia – A real Rioja in the grand style! I have a bottle of their 94 which I’m dying to open!

2006 Dehesa Gago Toro – More rustic, but almost jammy it was so rich.

Until next time,

Cheers,

Wine Club Insider out

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