Growing wine in Germany is an uphill struggle, literally and metaphorically. The vineyards are located so far north that the grapes struggle every year to get ripe before the chill of autumn sets in. Oh, and many vineyards are planted on impossibly steep hillsides that end in a river. Some of these vineyards are so steep that people tending to the grapes tether themselves to the top of the hill with big ropes in order to work on the vines. These riverside vineyards are difficult to work but make the best wines on account of the extra sun they get from the light reflecting off of the river and back onto the steep hillsides.

The vineyards of Germany are all clustered in the southwest corner of the country, near the border with France. The wine growing regions are centered around the Rhine River and its tributaries. In typically German fashion everything about the quality wine industry is organized, but not strictly regulated. The organization goes from very large to individual vineyard sites.

There are 13 large regions designated in German wine laws, they’re called Anbaugebiete. Within these large are districts called Bereiche, there are 39 of these. Then within the districts there are Grosslagen, which are even smaller districts, a collection of vineyards in a certain spot. Finally there are individual vineyards called Einzellagen, and they’ve counted them, there’s 2,658. Of the 13 regions there are three that are generally thought of as the best: Mosel, Rheingau and Rheinhessen.

Excellent wine comes from all the regions, but these three are home to the best quality German wines. The most celebrated grape in all of these regions is Riesling. Many other grapes are grown in Germany, but the undisputed king is Riesling. German Riesling can come in of the sweetness styles, but it’s always marked by powerful but graceful acidity and dramatic concentration of flavor and aromatics. Pinot Noir, called Spätburgunder here, is the most planted red grape. When it actually gets ripe it can be pretty good.

The Mosel is located in the north of the wine growing regions and includes tributary rivers of Saar and Ruwer. The region is noted for its extremely steep hillside vineyards and the slate in the soil. The slate is reckoned to give the wines their characteristic mineral flavors. The Riesling from the Mosel is light, crisp and bracing.

A bend in the Rhine gives the Rheingau region a broad, south-facing stretch of hillside on which to grow some of the best Riesling in the world. This is most likely where Riesling cultivation started and is still home to the best producers and vineyards in Germany. The style of Rheingau Riesling is a bit weightier than Mosel wines, with more defined aromatics and structure.

The Rheinhessen is the largest production area in Germany. It was once synonymous with cheap, bulk Liebfraumilch. While there is still a significant industry in that most basic of German wine, the producers in the area have begun producing very high quality wines. Many of the best houses are making powerful, dry Riesling.

Dessert Wine, Fine Wine, Riesling, Sweet Wine dry riesling, German Wine, Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Rhine, Riesling

WIne Club Insider back on this foggy Thursday in the Northwest.

I’m currently training for Adventure Racing and a marathon or two, and got out for an hour’s mountain bike ride and an 18 mile run yesterday, catching a nice break between snowfalls… I’m thinking of adding the Napa Valley marathon back into my schedule this year, as it’s the only real marathon I know where you can do the run and try a bunch of excellent wines along the way! What more can you ask for? Imagine reaching mile 16 or so, and then popping oer to the side of the road for a taste of a crisp Viognier or Riesling to help you through that last few miles… ah… now that’s a marathon!

The date for this year is March 1st , and you can find more info at www.napavalleymarathon.org

Speaking of Rieslings… even though it’s the heart of winter here, my thoughts occasionally drift to summer, and today is one of those days. One of my best friends is currently living in Australia, and just got engaged to a beautiful Australian girl. He asked me to be his Best Man next November in the middle of Australian summer. Ah, the things you do for your friends… terrible job, really. What has this got to do with Rieslings, you ask? Well, he is a big, tough, guy (actually a former Navy SEAL) but was a wimp when it came to wine or indulging of any sort… when we met, he thought an Amaretto Sour was high octane. Being a good friend, I was forced to broaden his horizons, especially when it came to wine, and while he developed a much broader palate, his favorites were still the light and crisp whites, especially Riesling, so, here we are.

German Rhine Rieslings are often considered the most famous variety, but the varietal is making huge gains in Alsace, Austria, Canada and the US, and is a very good “cold weather” varietal.

Now, many folks think that, like other “light” whites, it should be consumed while young, but Riesling, due to the high sugar and acidity, ages marvelously, and there are several examples of Rieslings aged decades that drink marvelously, with no signs of fading! I personally have a few bottles of 1975 and 76 German Rieslings that are absolutely awesome – among my top twenty wines, I would say. They are honey golden, crisp and rich, and seem to be getting better.

Riesling is one of the best wines for showing of the “terroir” – the character of the vineyard/region/soil from which they originate, and due to their propensity for attracting “Noble Rot,” they also make some of the best sweet wines in the world, including the best trockenbeerenausleses and German Eisweins.

Riesling is now considered one of the top three white wines, in terms of importance, along with Sauv Blanc and Chard.

One of our favorites comes from – yes, I’m serious – Idaho! Yes, Idaho! Ste. Chapelle winery from the Snake River region makes outstanding wines, but maybe none better than their Riesling. Check them out at www.stechapelle.com, and check out Riesling with a new, fresh eye!

Cheers,

Wine Insider out!

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