Super Tuscans
You may have heard of wines called “Super Tuscans” at some point. Alas, these are not Italian super-heroes…but they are fantastic wines. They hail, of course, from the region of Tuscany in central Italy and their history is one of rebellion greatness.
First, you must understand Italian wine laws. There are several quality-level designations within the Italian wine law that basically dictate which grapes can be grown where, based on historical practices. The name for the highest level of quality (and strictness) is DOC and DOCg—which is Denominacion de Controlatta and Denominacion de Controlatta garantita.
In many parts of Tuscany the grape that is accepted for DOC and DOCg use is the great Sangiovese (which you many know as it makes Chianti). In Tuscany the Sangiovese grape has been established for centuries.
Cabernet Sauvignon has not. Cabernet is a French grape. It does not have a history in Tuscany, or Italy for that matter.
Nonetheless, in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s a group of winemakers started blending the native Sangiovese with the Bordeaux grapes, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon along with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The first of these wines was Sassicaia, followed by Tignanello, Ornellaia rounds out the three most famous names in Super Tuscans.
Since these wines were not made according the DOC rules, they had to be labeled as Vin d’Tavolo—that is, table wine. But then something happened, the wines became famous and started commanding very high prices. The Italian government was not pleased that the most expensive wines coming out of Italy were lowly table wines that didn’t follow the rules. So, they went ahead and changed the rules. They called the wines IGT (Indicazione Geographica Tipica) which meant that at least 85% of the grapes for the wine came from the geographic area, in this case, Tuscany.
Winemakers all over the world have followed in the footsteps of the first Super Tuscan producers by planting French varietals and blending them with all kinds of grapes. The Italian government even granted Sassicaia it’s own DOC—the only one for a single vineyard in all of Italy.
