It’s easy to overlook the areas of Burgundy that aren’t the Côte d’Or. Really, there is so much going on in the Côte d’Or, who has the time to focus on wines from down south? Much like the younger siblings of an all-star older brother may get left behind in the family discussions, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Maconnais don’t garner much attention for their output. And why would they? It’s not breathtakingly expensive, the area isn’t riddled with overlapping AOCs and communes with 14 vines inside of monastic stone walls. They just make good wine at a fair price, which seems like an excellent reason to give them some attention.

The Côte Chalonnaise lies just south of the Côte d’Or, in long north to south strip of land surrounding a central plain. The soils and the overall climatic conditions in the area are quite similar to the Côte d’Or, with the exception being that there is slightly less rain in the Côte Chalonnaise. The major geographic difference is that vineyards in the Côte d’Or lie on long, single hillside; where in the Côte Chalonnaise there aren’t significant slopes for the vines to grow. The area is more undulating and pastoral than it’s northern neighbor and consequently has many microclimates that affect the quality of the wine from the various subregions: Bouzeron, Rully, Mercury, Givry and Montagny.

Bouzeron is closest to the Côte d’Or, lying just south of Montrachet. The area grows both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and these wines are generally bottled under the generic Bourgogne labels. The unique part of Bouzeron is that it is the only AOC in France for the grape Aligoté. The wines made from Aligoté tend to be a bit denser, more in the style of Pinot Gris than the Chardonnay which is the norm for the region.

Rully is located south of Bouzeron and is the most important area for production of sparkling wine in Burgundy—labeled Cremant de Bourgogne. Rully does produce a light and mostly simple Pinot Noir as well.

The most important name in the Côte Chalonnaise is Mercury. It not only produces the most wine in the area, but it also produces some of the best. Pinot Noir is the grape of choice here and can reach very good quality levels, helped in part by the mandated restriction on yields of grapes per acre. The wines of Mercury have a deep color, spicy notes of cherry and can at their best be on par with some respectable Côte de Beaune wines.

Givry grows almost exclusively red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Though the area is quite small, it has seen a positive increase in quality in the last decade. The reds display a respectable tannic structure as well as currant and earth on the nose. Some can age well, but most are ready to drink within 5-7 years after bottling.

The last region in the Côte Chalonnaise is Montagny, an appellation that produces only white wines from the Chardonnay grape. The wines are noted for displaying full structure and crisp acidity. Styles can range from very full-bodied and oaky to quite lean and firm, all in all a very good representation of old world Chardonnay.

Before the process of fermentation was fully understood, Champagne was called “the devil’s wine.” It earned this reputation for its propensity to explode without warning and cause bodily harm to whomever was around at the moment. The problem turned out to be the cold climate of the Champagne region itself. In the fall, when the wine was fermenting, the temperature often fell below temperatures that yeast would be active at. The wine producers thought the wine had finished fermenting and would bottle it. Only it hadn’t finished the fermentation process—there was still sugar and live yeast in the bottles. Then, when spring rolled around and the wine warmed up, the yeast began its process: eat sugar, exude alcohol and carbon dioxide. This left the wines with gas in the bottles…and caused them to explode without warning.

Thankfully, the Champagne producers got this process under control and eventually devised a complicated system of producing their sparkling wines that removed the yeast from the bottle and left no one injured. The folks in the Champagne district call this process méthode champenoise. The French are a little fussy when it comes to the names of their products, so they’ve fought quite hard to bar anyone outside of Champagne from using the term méthode champenoise. You’ll most likely see “traditional method” or “méthode traditionnelle” on bottles of sparkling wine that use the method, but aren’t Champagne.

The Champagne method starts in basically the same way that all wine production starts: pick ripe grapes, crush them, add yeast to the juice and ferment. In Champagne this initial process yields the base wine, which is blended with other base wines from different years or vineyard, this is the cuvee.

This cuvee is then put into the bottles and a small amount of yeast is added with it along with a little sugar—this called the liqueur de triage. At this point the wine is capped with pry-off caps (like on beer bottles) and put into a cellar to age. Champagne will age for 18 months to 3 years, during this time the yeast consumes the sugar and releases carbon dioxide—the bubbles. The time spent aging with the yeast in the bottle is called “aging on the lees,” and is hallmark of Champagne wines. (Yeast in a bottle is called lees) After the producer ages the wine for a minimum of 15 months, or more, the wine is ready to riddle.

The goal of the riddling process is get the (now dead) yeast cells to the neck of the bottle, so they can be removed. The riddle starts with the wines lying horizontally on special racks. Then, they are ever so slowly tilted upward, a little each day. Over time the yeast cells travel down to the neck of the bottle and the pressure in the bottle keeps them there.

The bottles are now ready for the final steps. First the neck of the bottle is frozen, which freezes the wine in the neck—this wine contains the yeast cells that need to be removed. Then the cap is taken off, the pressure of the wine shoots the ice-yeast plug from the neck of the wine. This process is called disgorging (dégorgement in French). The final step is the dosage; this must be completed quickly because the sparkling wine is now open and losing pressure. The dosage is a mixture of small amount of sugar and other secret ingredients that is added to the wine. Then the bottle is closed with a Champagne cork and a wire cage, and the Champagne process is complete.

Carneros exists in its own little world. It’s the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) to be defined by climate—instead of political lines in the sand. It straddles the two most famous AVAs in the United States—Napa and Sonoma—with a portion of the appellation lying in each, and the ability to name it’s wines as Carneros or Napa/Sonoma, depending where the grapes are from. It’s the only area in the U.S. that is recognized internationally as a powerhouse of sparkling wine production. Carneros, or Los Carneros if you want, is a very special corner of the wine world, and it lies just across the bay from San Francisco.

The dominant climatic force in Carneros is the San Pablo Bay, an offshoot of the larger San Francisco Bay. This oceanic influence brings down temperatures and brings in strong winds, which consistently hit the vineyards of Carneros. The area was chosen by the great Louis M. Martini in the 1940’s because of the relative coolness of the climate—this is California after all, not Wisconsin, so the coolness is relative. Still the area showed promise for growing grapes that fare well in cool weather, namely Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

After some success in the 70’s with varietal, still versions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the world began to form an idea. The idea went like this: cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay make some pretty good sparkling wine in Champagne…so, let’s make a sparkling wine in the style of Champagne in Carneros! And so began the veritable gold rush of the 80’s for good land in Carneros by the big Champagne (and Cava) producers.

The wines of Carneros are marked by a certain touch of old-world charm, mixed in with the fruit forward flavor profiles—they’re California wines after all. The Chardonnays tend to have significantly more acid and less of the creamy, roundness of most California Chardonnay. This style can be excellent on its own, but often finds its way into a blend of Chardonnays from either Napa or Sonoma. The clean acidity and brightness help to balance the fattier style of Chardonnay from warmer parts of the appellations. Carneros Pinot is noted for having a lighter body with more earthy aromas than most California examples of the grape.

The sparkling wine from Carneros is considered some of the best of the new world. The wines display excellent structure and acidity, with intense aroma and bright, clear flavors. Some of the best sparkling producers in the area are: Domaine Chandon, Domaine Carneros, Gloria Ferrer and Codorníu Napa. Sparkling wine from Carneros has the potential to age well, though most bottles follow the Champagne example and are blends of several years, so there won’t be a vintage year on the label.

Aquatine, as the Bordeaux area is sometimes called, is broken up by two rivers—the Dordogne and Garrone—which converge to form the Gironde, a huge river that meets the Atlantic shortly after forming. Both sides of the Gironde are important wine producing areas, on the left are the regions Médoc and Graves, home to the classified growths of Bordeaux. On the right are several less famous, but still important appellations of St. Emilion and Pomerol, and while these are gaining in reputation, the Left Bank is the established king of Bordeaux wine.

In 1855 the French got together and rated the vineyards of Bordeaux. These classes, or growths as they’re called, were ranked from 1^st to 5^th. Hundreds were included, and the listing is still very relevant today. The ranking was monumental and the most prestigious placement of 1^st growth was given to only four estates: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux and Château Haut-Brion. A fifth château was granted 1^st growth status in 1973, Château Mouton Rothschild. These are the elite wine estates of the Bordeaux and they all lie on the Left Bank.

The left bank is broadly broken up into the regions Médoc and Graves. Château Haut-Brion is the only 1^st growth in Graves, all the rest are in the Médoc. Within the Medoc, there are even more subregions, the most important are: St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien and Margaux. These four areas hold the vast majority of 1^st and 2^nd growths in Bordeaux. It’s important to note that the classification system in Bordeaux classifies Châteaux, the producer, while Burgundy and the rest of France classify the actual land. These four areas lie along the Gironde and run roughly north to south in the order they are listed above.

While St. Estephe has no 1^st growths, it does have a good concentration of classified producers: Ch. Cos d’Estournel, Cos Labroy, Lafon-Rochet, Calon-Segur and Montrose. The soils in St. Estephe tend to have a little more clay and a little less gravel, and the wines tend to be more acidic, fuller in structure and less perfumed.

Just south of St. Estephe, along the banks of the Gironde is Paulliac. This is the most celebrated of regions, with three of the five 1^st growths found here: Latour and both Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild. The soils are the best, quick draining gravel and the land gently slopes down to the river. These are the consummate wines of the left bank: soft fruit with well-integrated oak, dry, seamless tannin and vigour to maintain and age for decades. Lafite tends towards finesse and Latour and Mouton tend towards power and strength.

Next door Pauillac is the region of St. Juilen, home to the most classed growths in Bordeaux, though no 1^st growths. The soils here also the highly desirable gravel and the best estates are closest to the river. The wines from St. Julien can vary depending on relative location; closer to Margaux, the wines tend to be smoother and closer to Pauillac the wines tend to be more powerful and robust.

Margaux is still farther south and is unique in that it extends well away from the river. The most famous Chateau is certainly Ch. Margaux, one of the original 1^st growths. The soils here are thinner, but still have excellent gravel coverage. The Margaux AOC is home to the most 2^nd and 3^rd growths in Bordeaux, the overall quality level of the appellation is very high. Margaux is said to make the most polished, fragrant and finessed wines of all the Medoc.

In Australia, Syrah is called Shiraz. And in Australia, the quintessential Shiraz is the wine from the Barossa Valley in the state of South Australia. The wines from this valley are big and strong and are now considered an entire style all their own. The Barossa didn’t always enjoy international fame, however. The story of wine in Barossa is one of ubiquity, neglect and finally redemption.

Unlike the rest of Australia, the area of South Australia and the Barossa Valley was settled not by the British but by Germans. The immigrants found the land and climate best suited to grape growing, so, being German, they planted Riesling. The wine turned out very strong and the wines eventually became a source for brandy. This in turn created an opportunity to make fortified wine (of which brandy is a necessary component to stop the fermentation while the wine is still sweet), which Australians did with zeal until about the mid 20^th century.

At this point market demand shifted to dry table wines and the vineyards of the Barossa were largely ignored because they were planted with the common Shiraz. At the time, consumers were more interested in the stylish Cabernet Sauvignon. Eventually, the Barossa shifted its focus to fine wine production and the wine industry again embraced the region, and Shiraz, as a source of quality table wines.

Weather in the Barossa can be quite hot and dry, not always the best for quality wine grape production. Fortunately the Barossa has river valleys that provide cool microclimates and water for irrigation. Some producers now choose to dry farm their grapes, but most rely heavily on irrigation.

The best wines of the Barossa are from the valley’s signature grape: Shiraz. The style of Shiraz form the Barossa is big and full-bodied with aggressive notes of chocolate and spice. The wines are often given a shorter than normal maceration (time the grape juice spends soaking in the grape skins) in an effort to smooth out the big tannins and provide a rich, supple mouthfeel.

Many of Australia’s big producers have a stake in the Barossa, including: Penfolds, Peter Lehmann, Orlando Wines, Seppeltsfield, Wolf Blass and Yalumba. In addition to the Shiraz, the Valley is also home to Riesling planted in the cooler area of Eden Valley. These wines are gaining their own reputation for quality. Finally a style of Semillion is emerging from Barossa which is distinct from wines produced elsewhere in Australia as well as the world, the wines are generally low-acid, full bodied and golden in color.

The world of wine is massively complex and laden with terms, laws and regions that can overwhelm even a seasoned wine consumer. In an effort to organize and regulate quality, the world’s wine producing nations have assembled a series of laws and regulations which designate wine labeling with respect to location, grapes, sugar levels, quality levels and production capacities. Each country has developed their own system, however, most are based on the French system.

The French are surprisingly organized about their wine, at least given their stereotypical laizze faire attitude. The French system is first broken into two quality categories: table wine and quality wines. The two levels of table wine are: Vin de Table, which is rarely exported, you won’t see it, don’t worry about it and Vin de Pays which is wine produced in a specific region, this makes up about a third of the wine produced in France. Quality wines of France are also split into two categories: VDQS and AOC. The VDQS wines are Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure and are generally seen as a stepping stone to the highest category, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, or, AOC. The wines classified as AOC are the best wines of France and will generally be the wines purchased outside of France.

In France, and other countries, the idea of an appellation is that a specific, designated area has been historically proven to produce excellent wines—usually from specific grapes.

The Italians developed their wine classification systems in a style similar to the French—which is to designate quality based on areas that have historically produced the most excellent wines. The most basic Italian wines are Vino da Tavola: which are the most basic, table wines. Next in quality level is Indicazione Geografica Tipica: (IGT) the equivilant of Vin de Pays in Italy, the wines have some geographic context, but are not restrictive of anything besides area. The next level of quality is Denominazione di Origne Controllata: (DOC) Italy’s original control group, like the AOC of France, restricts geographic area, grapes and yields. Finally there is Denominazione di Origne Controllata e Garantita: (DOCG) wines recognized (and guaranteed) as Italy’s best.

Spanish wine laws are also very similar to the French laws. The Vin de Table is called Vino de Mesa. The Vin de Pays equivalent is called Vino de la Tierra, a table wine from somewhere specific. The Spanish equivalent of AOC is the DO—Denominacion de Origen, these are wines from a specific area, usually from a specific grape. Finally, the Spanish have taken the Italian idea of a fourth level of quality that they call Denomicacion de Origen Calificada, DOCa, of which there are only two: Rioja and Priorat.

The wine laws of the U.S. are much less specific about grapes and yields. The appellations of U.S. system are called AVAs—American Viticultural Areas. These areas are regulated by the ATF and designate geographic areas, for instance the Napa Valley or the Central Coast. In the U.S., the AVA system sets boundaries on maps, but doesn’t designate which grapes can be grown where.

How many countries mention wine in their national anthem? Well, Hungary does. That’s how important Tokaji is to this nation. Pronounced “toe-kigh,” this wine has been produced in the same area of Hungary since at least the 1500’s. The wine is distinctive and is produced from grapes affected by botrytis or “noble rot.” Botrytis is a beneficial mold that grows on the skins of grapes and causes the water to evaporate, leaving behind the sugar and acids. Grapes affected by botrytis are extremely sweet.

Tokaji is a sweet wine, it’s produced from Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes primarily, with a few more added in small amounts. The wine can be produced several styles. The first style is called Szamorodni, this is made from botrytised grapes and undergoes a normal vinification process, depending on the amount of grapes affected by botrytis it can end up very sweet or less sweet. The sweetness level is measured in units called puttonyos.

The second style is Aszú. This is the most famous and distinctive Tokaji. The process begins with grapes affected by botrytis. These grapes are smashed and mixed into the juice of other grapes and this mixture is stirred and stored for several days. This liquid is now very sweet and the juice is strained out and stored in casks where it ferments and ages for several years. The resulting is unique for its distinct color and flavors and its high alcohol content compared to other sweet botrytised wines. The amount of botrytised grapes that go into the mix determines the count of puttonyos that the final wine is granted

The final style is called Eszencia. This is the sweetest wine in the world and is made from the juice that the botrytis affected grapes drip out with they are being stored before the production of Aszú. This wine can be 50-60% sugar by weight and only reaches 4-5% alcohol. Eszencia is extremely expensive and rare, it was once reserved only for the kings of Hungary.

Tokaji is wonderfully delicious, sweet, powerful and complex. It’s one of the great wines of the world. It’s only produced in small quantities by a few wineries and is high demand all over the world. If you find some, buy it up, and if you’re able to resist drinking it all, it will age for decades.

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The South Island of New Zealand is an improbable place to find “the best in the world” of any type of wine. Consider that the area began producing quality wine with any seriousness in the 1970’s. Yet the Kiwis were able to successfully match a single grape to a geographic area—and get modern winemaking ideas in place. It’s quite remarkable. So is Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. This gem of the New Zealand wine crown is not the only show in town though, there are excellent wines coming from all four wine regions of New Zealand’s South Island.

The smallest wine area on the South Island is also the farthest north (remember, we’re below the equator so north = warmer) The little area of Nelson doesn’t yet have the international recognition of its neighbor Marlborough, but its certainly on its way. The area lies in gentle rolling hills and enjoys the climatic regulation of the Tasman Bay. Wine production in the area is small, but focused on quality wine. Delicate, balanced Pinot Noir is the main red production and vibrant, flinty Chardonnay is the main white—along with some Riesling and Pinot Gris.

The world famous Marlborough lies on the northeast corner of the South Island, adjacent to the Pacific Ocean and rimmed by mountain ranges. The vineyards of Marlborough lie on broad alluvial plain that is home to some of the worlds best Sauvignon Blanc and quite respectable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. More than 60% of the countries vineyards are in Marlborough. The regions climate is exceptional with very long sunny days and cool nights that help the grapes to retain the acid structure, which is such a hallmark of Marlborough Sav Blanc. The wines are generally very intense and pure with a balance of fruit and acid that is unparalleled.

Canterbury and Waipara two areas which are often grouped together as a single wine producing district. Both areas lie on the eastern coast of the island, south of the Marlborough region, near the city of Christchurch. Both areas produce predominately Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Riesling the third most planted. The best area is in Waipara, in and around the Omihi Hills where quality Pinot Noir is the choice product.

Fun fact: Otaga is the southernmost wine region in the world. Otaga is unique on the South Island in that it is located in the interior, well away from any coast. Otaga is a geographically complex area with a true continental climate. This means there are significant temperature variations and well defined seasons with cold, snowy winters and hot, dry summers. Today the area is producing some of the most exciting Pinot Noir in all of New Zealand. The land under production is rising quickly and the quality of the wine is surprisingly good. In good time this area will most likely be as synonymous with Pinot Noir in NZ as Marlborough is with Sauvignon Blanc.