You’ve ordered the wine. Whew! One big step out of the way. But here the guy comes with the bottle, a corkscrew, and a little plate. What’s all the rigmarole about? Why doesn’t he just pour the wine and let you get on with it?

In many restaurants, that is all that happens, and though it’s less embarrassing, it’s not with your best interests in mind. There is a possibility that the wine will be bad, and the tasting ceremony is your chance to find out and correct the situation.

Some parts of the tasting ceremony are more for show than for use, though, so here’s a primer in What to Do with That Cork, and other ways to handle the tasting ceremony coolly.

What to Expect

You might not feel comfortable when all eyes at the table train on you as the waiter presents you with the wine, but you should be mighty glad you have that chance. The waiter brings the wine to you so you can …

• Make sure it’s the one you ordered.
• Make sure it tastes like it should.

If it’s not the bottle you ordered, or it is but doesn’t taste like it should, this is your chance to reject it and request it be replaced with the correct bottle in good shape. Think about it: The embarrassment the tasting ceremony might cause is nothing compared to what would happen were a bad bottle poured all around.

Sometimes it pays to smell the glasses before the wine is even poured. Soap or damp rag smells can add unpleasant notes to a perfectly good wine.

This moment, however, is not a chance to decide you don’t like what you’ve chosen. Let’s go through the steps so you’ll know exactly what to expect and how to handle it.

Check the Label

The waiter should give you time to check the name, vintage, and any other identifying information on the label to make sure it’s what you ordered. (If he’s really good, he’ll point out all the salient information for you, as it’s sometimes hard to make the details quickly in a dark restaurant.)

Once you’ve determined that it is indeed the wine you ordered, he’ll step back and open the wine. When he’s uncorked it, he’ll put the cork on the table.